It is almost impossible nowadays to come across superb destinations that are fundamentally interesting and yet still untrampeled by the tourist herds. China's share of first-rate historical locations are rapidly coming to light-old towns like Pingyao and Fenghuang have, in recent decades, come to the attention of the backpacker set and now have fully-fledged tourist industries. Visit these places now and you may feel that their historical authenticity has been diluted by the tourist machine.

However, just a short ride away from Beijing lies a small town of that rare, pristine variety. For several compelling reasons, the ancient city of Xingcheng makes for a great weekend away: it's the best preserved of only four Ming dynasty cities in China that retain their original and complete city walls, and its location on the coast ensures great ocean views and ample opportunities for summer swimming and lazing on the beach. In addition, the city is blessed with natural hot springs. Discovered in the Tang dynasty, the spring water is potable and has given rise to a number of geothermal sanatoriums and natural spa resorts-not to mention private spas for crafty locals who've managed to build houses over some of the vents.

Despite all these attractions, tourist activity in Xingcheng is minimal. The ancient quarter is hidden away within what from a distance looks like a rundown old town. Regional visitors and a regular number of sightseers from Vladivostok make up the city's peak traffic during the May break.

The walls enclosing Xingcheng's ancient quarter have stood since 1428, the early days of the Ming dynasty when the city held strategic importance as the first outpost beyond the Great Wall. They proved impenetrable to Nurhachi, the great Manchu leader who consolidated the tribes of Manchuria and laid the foundations for what would become the Qing dynasty. He lamented as he was carried away from his defeated 1626 siege of the city, dying from injuries inflicted by Ming cannon-fire, that Xingcheng (then called Ningyuan) had been his only failed campaign.

These days the wall is showing its age. Nestled in among the tightly packed stores and run-down residential units at the city's edge is a sight from another age: the darkened brickwork of the ancient pass into the old city, towering above the neighborhood. The ancient quarter is charmingly compact. Instead of having the traditional pair of drum and bell towers, the purposes of the two were incorporated into one tower which now also houses a small museum to the city. It stands at the junction of the four central streets leading to the central gates in each wall, along which traditionally styled storefronts purvey garments and food, watched over by roughly weathered stone lions. Among the mazework of the ancient quarter's back lanes lie other historical remnants including a quiet temple to Confucius, which is actually the oldest temple in all of northeast China and the largest ancient building in Liaoning.

Xingcheng's beach, rarely visited at all outside the first week of May, has fine, soft sand. A few viewing platforms have been erected to stand over the waves making for some romantic hand-holding opportunities. The sea looks rough, but is safe for swimming-although it does freeze solid in the winter into choppy jagged blocks that stretch for miles. Just off the main beach, the outdoor Mazu Temple features an enormous gold-colored Laughing Buddha and two standing goddesses, staring forever out to sea. Their incense ash floats skyward out over the silhouette of Chrysanthemum Island (Juhua Dao)-6.8 nautical miles away and plainly visible against the skyline, it is the largest island in the Bohai Gulf and home to a small fishing community living in relative isolation from the mainland. The island was the sanctuary for the Prince of Yan, escaping the infamously ruthless first emperor of China, Qin Shihuang. Visitors wanting to follow in the prince's footsteps can enjoy more secluded bathing, climb the island's mountains or visit the Temple of the Dragon King and enjoy the island's Chrysanthemum Gardens.

You won't have too long to enjoy the relative seclusion Xingcheng offers-heads are beginning to turn and the city administration, perhaps indignant at the unfair lack of attention the city receives, is endeavoring to attract more visitors. For now, however, Xingcheng's ancient architecture and lonely seashores remain relatively untouched-for a limited time, the city can still be seen without the crowds that are destined to change this place into something less unique.

(That's Beijing)